New York, Lon don, Milan and Paris spring sum mer fash ion weeks 2011 kick off this Sep tem ber
By Fareeha Qay oom
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pring is in the air! No, I am not mad. Spring is really in the air even if it’s not quite fall yet as far as fash ion cal en dar is con cerned. The sea son kick starts with New York Fash ion week (for menand women) in progress right now – mov ing on to Lon don (men and women), Milan (women only) and to finally cul mi nate at Paris (women only). This year it’s no dif fer ent either.
New York Fash ion week spring 2011, Vic to ria Beck ham
The light, airy feel of the clothes goes with the gen eral feel ing of opti mism at spring 2011 pre views at Mercedes-Benz Fash ion week. Tommy Hilfiger’s twenty-fifth anniver sary bash was one of the ‘splashiest’ events of the sea son and the fash ion crowd appar ently thoroughly enjoyed the cel e bra tions I hear.
Illu sion with sheer looks made a quiet statement at New York Fash ion week, in other words, strate gic use of sheer fab ric, here and there, on sleeves, neck line, over lay or skirt, gave the illu sion of bare ness with out reveal ing all. As Saman tha Critchell (AP) put it, “The look was nat u rally sexy, with out being vul gar.”
Vic to ria Beck ham took the unusual step of nar rat ing her own show, clad in black, she was appar ently in love with one of her cre ations, a “white matte gazar gown with sculp tural pleated shoul ders and a waist band adorned with linked micro-beads,” vow ing to wear it to the next big fash ion event. Appar ently, she “pushed” her self with this dress, not to mention, another dress that’s des tined to make it to her per sonal wardrobe, a “Cadillac-pink shift dress with an asym met ri cal, curved neckline.” The themes of her spring dresses was a cel e bra tion of curves, she said, tak ing out some of the corsetry that she pre vi ously built sil hou ettes on, replac ing that with oval pan els that she said would give the same flatter ing shape with more com fort.
Derek Lam also made a bold quiet state ment. The sooth ing color palette in ivory, parch ment and tan got a quick boost from con trast ing shades in navy, black and indigo denim. The designer defined quiet chic with lanky and easy sil hou ettes; “an embroi dered pon cho worn with a belt loop ing through the front side only would make a chic day time dress, and a cash mere silk tank dress-sweater com bi na tion in oat meal was the sort of no-frills look that a woman would reach for again and again.”
The designer Thakoon Panichgul famous for dress ing first lady Michelle Obama on many occa sions took the sheer look and ran with it for a col lec tion that had a “boudoir feel, with loose pajama stripes, bra tops and sheer lingerie-like dresses.” At times the run way seemed more suited to Victoria’s Secret than the front-row crowd that included for mer White House Social Sec re tary Desiree Rogers. To be sure, there were some beau ti ful clothes that could travel out side the bed room for exam ple, “a pajama stripe silk lay ered vest with white cot ton twill pants had a loose and pretty feel.”
Cather ine Malan drino was true to her free-spirited roots, black macramé glad i a tor san dals to the thigh were paired with slash tops and teeny knit bot toms, with crack led leathered bolero jack ets, flowing gowns in breezy jer sey and wide-legged trousers in terra-cotta, olive and clay. A long dress wor thy of the beach was hand-crocheted in ivory with open ovals from the chest to the belly but ton. Malandrino’s palette paid homage to ceram ics maker Roger Capron and the south ern French vil lage of Val lau ris.
Cyn thia Rowley’s lovely, pol ished clothes were pre sented with sets of “Swan Lake” and “Romeo and Juliet” in the back drop stand ing tall behind the mod els. The swing toward sophis ti cated styles is part of the evo lu tion of fash ion, Row ley said in an inter view later Sat ur day. The first look out was an oth er wise sim ple taupe dress, but cutout dots like a Con nect Four unit made it new and inter est ing. The same went for all the trans par ent pan els on sweaters and polos, and the col ored peb ble like embell ish ment on shirts, shorts and a cock tail party-ready shift dress.
Pra bal Gurung, Singapore-born, Nepal-raised young man, took a bit of a risk on his third-ever runway, start ing with color blocked cash mere knits. It was a state ment worth mak ing: Gurung wants to dress real women — women of style, not those obsessed with trends.
The DKNY woman breezed onto the run way neatly wrapped in the brand’s new heritage-print scarf. The spring col lec tion bor rowed from many clas sic wardrobe sta ples, includ ing shirt dresses, ruf fled blouses and trench coats. “Who doesn’t need a good trench?” said Harper’s Bazaar Editor-in-Chief Glenda Bai ley on a soggy day, not ing the black one she was car ry ing; “Works for every thing.”
So would Karan’s trim blaz ers — many with peplums on the back — and tapered trousers that she hoped would strad dle pre ci sion and effort less ness.
Z Spoke by Zac Posen Spring Sum mer 2011 Run way Show at New York Fash ion Week.
Preen Spring Sum mer 2011 Run way Show at New York Fash ion Week.
DKNY Spring Sum mer 2011 Run way Show at New York Fash ion Week.
BCBG Spring Sum mer 2011 Run way Show at New York Fash ion Week.
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